Give me 5….Plus beaux villages de France

Whilst exploring the Pyrénées-Orientales you may have come across the “Plus beaux villages de France” label. There are 14 such villages in the Languedoc Roussillon, five of which are in the P-O - handy for the purposes of this article!

This not-for-profit organisation was set up by an enterprising mayor in 1982 with the aim of promoting the rich historical heritage of France’s forgotten villages and to stop them falling into oblivion. There are around 150 classified villages throughout France. Villages apply to be classified and must meet strict criteria, including having a population of under 2000 and being home to at least two protected sites or monuments. To find out more check out their site at www.les-plus-beaux-villages-de-france.org.

Villefranche de Conflent

Located past Prades heading towards Font Romeu, and at the confluence of three rivers – the Tệt, the Cady and the Rotja - Villefranche de Conflent, a medieval village, dating back to the 11^th century, looms large with its sheer stone walls, still intact some 1000 odd years later. Even more impressive than its “Plus beaux villages…” tag, the village has just been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

This was once the capital of Conflent, and the oldest parts of the town including the ramparts and the La Viguerie tower were built by the Count of Cerdagne, with fortifications added by the architect Vauban in the 17^th century. Above the town sits Fort Liberia, symbol of the village’s history as a defensive site, accessed by an underground passage, known as “the thousand steps” although actually it’s an easier climb with just (!) the 775 to ascend.

Strolling the streets hidden behind the walls, will find some interesting shops and art galleries, although the town hasn’t entirely escaped the tourist-tat shops. My personal favourite shop is “La Boutique du Champignon” – who knew there was a market for quite so much mushroom-related paraphernalia! Other attractions include the Canalette caves (with subterranean sound and light show in summer) and the Petit Train Jaune.

Castelnou

Castelnou is an easy-on-the-eye village which tumbles down a hillside in Les Aspres, under the watchful eye of majestic Mount Canigou. It’s a pleasant place to while away a morning or afternoon with a stroll through the narrow cobbled streets (no cars allowed) and a browse in the few shops and art galleries, ending with a drink and light bite in L’Hostal, a Catalan restaurant where you can sit on the outdoor terrace admiring the surrounding countryside.

The town is named after its pentagonal castle, Castelnou literally meaning “new castle” in Catalan. The castle, built on a rocky outcrop which dictated its unusual shape, is also known as Château Vicomtal, and has had a pretty tumultuous history since it was built in 990 to serve as the military and administrative capital of the Viscount of Vallespir. Over the centuries it has fallen in and out of repair and changed hands numerous times. Most recently it was severely damaged by a fire in 1987 but, happily, it has since been restored.

Mosset

At 700m above sea level, Mosset was another village founded as a defensive site on the border between the old kingdoms of France and Aragon. It is actually one of the largest communes in the P-O with 7,125 hectares of land and a 2000m variation in height however, the village itself is small and concentrated around the old château.

The Church of Saint Julien and Sainte Baselisse is a well preserved architectural monument, and these days, Mosset is the improbable location of a perfume tower and an fragrance museum offering themed rambles and interactive workshops based around the sense of smell! Rosemary Bailey’s book “Life in a Postcard” is an engaging account of life in the village and worth a read.

Mosset is also home to a mini ski slope, a good place for very young kids to find their skiing legs without having to trek up to the bigger resorts of Font Romeu and Les Angles only to lose interest after 15 minutes!

If you’re planning a visit to Mosset, it’s worth making a day of it by combining it with a stop at nearby Molitg-les-Bains where the rather grand Chateau de Riell hotel is home to a good spa. Go on, treat yourself!

Eus

As you drive on the main road from Perpignan to Prades, you can see the village of Eus on your right hand side, basking in the sunshine on the granite hillside. It bills itself as the sunniest village in France and the residents are affectionately known as “les lézards” - the lizards.  

It is yet another village borne out of a need to defend a border – odd that these villages which came from such aggressive roots are now such pleasant places to be! The village’s two churches – Sant Vicens de baix et Sant Vicens de dalt – tick the protected monuments box otherwise, the village is worth a visit for the views.

Evol

I think the French would describe Evol as “un peu perdu”, hidden away as it is in deepest darkest Conflent. It remains a rural village although one which boasts breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and a famous former habitant in the form of the novelist Ludovic Massé. I must confess that I hadn’t heard of him either and a search on Google is less than illuminating but he is known in academic circles and described Evol as “a piece of sky in the mountain” “far from everywhere”. More chapels, churches and castles to look at here.